1)Aperture – size of the opening of the lens
2)Aspect ratio- applies to printing photos. Aspect ratio is simply the ratio of the height to width. You can change the aspect ratio in your camera if you know how you’d like to print your image, or you can crop your photo when you edit it to the right ratio.
3)Bokeh- the orbs created when lights are out of focus in an image.
4)Burst mode- the camera will continue snapping photos as long as you hold the button down, or until the buffer is full.
5)Depth of field- The camera will focus on one distance, but there’s a range of distance in front and behind that point that stays sharp, that’s depth of field.
6)Digital vs optical- Important when buying a camera. Digital means the effect is achieved through software, not physical parts of the camera.
7)Exposure- how light or dark an image is.
8)Exposure composition- a way to tell the camera that you’d like the exposure to be lighter or darker, can be used on some automated modes and semi-automated modes like aperture priority.
9)Focus- something that is in focus is sharp, while an object that is out-of-focus isn’t sharp.
10)Flash sync- you probably know that the flash is a burst of light—flash sync determines when the flash fires. Normally, the flash fires at the beginning of the photo, but changing the flash sync mode adjusts when that happens.
11)Histogram- a chart that represents how many light and dark pixels are in an image. If the chart peaks towards the left, the image has a lot of dark hues. If the chart peaks to the right, the image has a lot of light hues. If those peaks are cut off at the on the left edges, the image is underexposed or the right edge overexposed (on the right edge).
12)Hot shoe- hot shoe is the slot at the top of a camera for adding accessories.
13)Iso- determines how sensitive the camera is to light
14)Long exposure- an image that has been exposed for a long time, or uses a long shutter speed.
15)Manual- allows the photographer to set the exposure instead of having the camera do it automatically.
16)Metering- using manual mode isn’t all guesswork—a light meter built into the camera helps guide those decisions, indicating if the camera thinks the image is over or under exposed. Matrix metering means the camera is reading the light from the entire scene. Centre-weighted metering considers only what’s at the centre of the frame and spot metering measures the light based on where your focus point is.
17)Noise- Noise is simply little flecks in an image, also sometimes called grain.
18)RAW- RAW is a file type that gives the photographer more control over photo editing. RAW is considered a digital negative (unprocessed)
19)Rule of thirds- this compositional rule suggests imagining the image has been divided into three parts both horizontally and vertically – place subjects at intersections
20)Shutter speed- is how long the cameras shutter stays open.
21)Shutter release- the button you press to take the picture.
22)Time lapse- a video created from stitching several photos together taken of the same thing at different times.
23)Viewfinder- the hole you look through to take the picture.
24)White balance- your eyes automatically adjust to different light sources, but a camera can’t do that, that’s why sometimes you take an image and it looks very blue or very yellow. Using the right white balance setting will make what’s white in real life actually appear white in the photo. Auto/manual.
25)Al Servo or Continuous Focus- the autofocus system will continue focusing until you take the photo, so the subject is still sharp, even if they move.
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